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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 27, 2022 16:30:46 GMT
Another common problem with these 3D Printers is that they ship 3D Printers with under rated wiring. This video Shows voltage drop from DC power threw the wiring on controller power input pins.
I normally use wire that I get free, shown below which is in my opinion perfect because it is free and rated for 25-30 amps.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 29, 2022 14:26:03 GMT
The Proximity sensor mount models assembly.
After printing STL files for my version of this Slide mount.
You will need a M3 X 50mm screw, Any standard ball point pen spring a 3mm thumb nut an of course your proximity sensor. My choice for a proximity sensor is the Omron TL-W3MC2 two reasons I purchased a box of 5 for the price of one. 2nd I like the low profile design which allows me to get this sensor with 20mm of the nozzle.
First mount the bearing side of the mount the the lowest bearing of your Hictop 3D Printer. Connect your proximity sensor to your slide mount making sure mounting screws do not get in the way of the sliding parts.
Next screw the M3 x 50mm in thru single hole from bottom as shown in photo then place the ink pen spring over the screw . At this time you slide the mounts together an screw the thumb on top.
I paint the thumb screw flat top using markers Red, Blue and green in 1/3 selection making is easy to see amount of adjustment.
These mounts will easily give you 6 mm of good proximity sensor adjustments, I personally have never used more than half..
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 29, 2022 14:38:16 GMT
I broke the 3D Printed Y-Axis adjustable bearing slide. An have determined that even though it worked perfectly on my first two Hictop printers. I was having a little problem adjusting so the belt would not rub on the Y-Axis slide mount.
Determined could 3D Print a small spacer 8 x 12 x .8mm an place between the two fanged bearings and my problem was solved.
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 29, 2022 15:22:16 GMT
sounds like you're making great progress...can't wait to see this fully restored
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 30, 2022 21:42:11 GMT
Have not installed low profile proximity sensor as of this date not sure when this modifications will be added, it will happen after printing cable chain. Printed a XYZ test cube to see how close my start configuration.h is It appears that it need to change from 80 on both XY-axis to 79.2 #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 79.2, 79.2, 400, 94.4962144 }
Test print below.
I can see in test print, still have a little Z-Wobble will replace the lead screw couplers
And to better see what causes the wobble look at the coupler. When replacing the couplers will take this opportunity to swap out for my TR8-2 lead screws with one revolution the rise is 2mm. While installing the new lead screws into the couplers I will place a single wrap of electricians tape to allow for an even turning lead screw.
The excess tape exposed on the lead screws will be trimmed for for esthetic purposes.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 30, 2022 23:18:26 GMT
After posting my last post see forgot to mention that the Y-Axis stepper motor was running quite rough, also swapped out a known good stepper motor
This was a goldenmotor.cn #42HD4027-01 this is how I burned up my first 3D Printer controller as the stepper motor used to replace with was not compatible.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 31, 2022 13:47:21 GMT
I did not want to post to the entire forum that I killed the X Axis driver on my new 3D Printer. though was told that this would help all other not kill there controllers. These driver chips are soldered to the controller board. I replaced one quite some time ago though the X-Axis still did not function after. When the time is avaiable may try to replace the Driver chip on for my newest 3D Printer as still have plenty of driver chips from my first try. I installed my Spare controller this now leaves me with no original Hictop controller spares. I could still use the Arduino Mega 2560 with a Ramps 1.6 " like it best of all ramps boards." An was thinking about upgrading to a 32 bit controller anyway so most likely will purchase a 32 bit controller an include it in a Making Hictop Better post. As still looking at what to purchase it could be any thing from a list below
- MKS GEN L V1.0 Control Board
- Geeetech GT2560 V4.0 Control Board
- PandaPI 2.8 > Raspberry Pi
- SKR PRO V1.1 ARM 32bit
looking at trying my hand at Panda Pi, this is a quad core 64bit computer that can run every thing in the 3D Printer controller including OctoPrint And the reason I kill my controller X-Axis driver, was adjusting V-Ref with a conductive tuning screwdriver. Can not tell you exactly what happened as do not know, the A-Axis driver voltage dropped to .2v during tuning. So pulled my only spare Hictop controller out of the box flashed my Marlin 2.0.6.1-Pur. Still needing to be adjusted I ordered a kit of non-conductive tuning screwdrivers, though not having a lot of patience decided to tune the new controller V-Ref. However this time had a plan, took a tooth pick an made a tuning screw driver.
P.S.
The controller is not completely dead, having two extruders decided to change the E1 to a New X-axis driver.
Opening up pin_RAMPS.h I disabled E0 and swapped pin to X an I have a new X Axis working driver.
// Steppers // #define X_STEP_PIN 36 //54 #define X_DIR_PIN 34 //55 #define X_ENABLE_PIN 30 //38 #ifndef X_CS_PIN #define X_CS_PIN 44 //53 #endif
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
//#define E1_STEP_PIN 36 //#define E1_DIR_PIN 34 //#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30 //#ifndef E1_CS_PIN //#define E1_CS_PIN 44 //#endif
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 31, 2022 15:13:11 GMT
Today remade the Proximity sensor slide mount posted below final STL file. I have mounted it on my New 3D Printer for testing the Proximity sensor mount.
The code I changed to switch between the two sensors is shown below.
insert code here// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true for SN-04N False for TL-W3MC2. #define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true for SN-04-N False for Runout Sensor.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to same logic as "Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING".
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 0, 25, -0.5 }
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Post by RobertsClif on Feb 1, 2022 15:13:52 GMT
I find myself with more time than I would like an with less money than needed to purchase parts for my hobbies.
I do have a problem that cannot wrap my head around, my XY-Z cube printed great. However my prints are inconsistent an it is getting aggravating. I will have to open a help post to see if I can figure why this 3D Printer is having so many problems getting good prints.
After adjusting V-Ref thought all my problems would go away, I mean just replaced the controller with one that is brand new. Adjusted all axis for smooth travel, only a few differences between my work in 24V 3D Printer an my Newest 3D Printer. These differences should not greatly reduce the quality of the printed model. The quality control of multiple models is consistently not equal.
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Post by RobertsClif on Feb 1, 2022 22:31:32 GMT
Dissembled the Hictop hot-end an of course it is clogged.
Now please do not laugh at me!!! while I was inspecting the Hictop hot-end the obvious was of course was a clogged by why was it clogged. I have no ideal where the hot-end throat came from though is is an all metal throat, this is my problem my Hictop always uses a PTFE teflon coated throat.
After installing correct PFTE throat and adjusting the nozzle height made easier by newly installed thumb screw adjustable Proximity sensor printed a XYZ test cube.
While watching the XYZ test cube printing i can say now have a 3rd 3D Printer once again. Now where did that all metal throat come from that caused me so much grief .
During the repair went ahead an added a hot-bed surface
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Post by Xayoz on Feb 2, 2022 11:27:24 GMT
awesome, glad you got it all figured out
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Post by RobertsClif on Feb 7, 2022 19:49:03 GMT
I have a Y-Axis Bearing jamming causing Y-Axis shift. The Printer will be humming along then bam most of the time it continues OK, once in a while Y-Axis shifts. Did not what to but will have to tear down the Y-Axis carriage again, clean an replace all bearings. Will test longer this time to see that all bearings replaced work this time.
Was close, not really though. The belt was adjusted a little to tight loosened belt print Ok now.
I want to Note: that I have been printing small calibration cubes, the jamming came up when i started printing larger models.
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Post by Xayoz on Feb 8, 2022 11:24:16 GMT
No chance it's a cable bundle catching on something?
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Post by RobertsClif on Feb 8, 2022 23:14:23 GMT
No chance it's a cable bundle catching on something? I was watching really carefully an my cabling did not catch at the time a the bang.
After testing am almost certain that the Y-Axis bearing holder needed a larger gap. When I tightened to a decent tension the two MF128ZZ bearings in conjunction with added spacer wedged in Y-Axis adjustable bearing holder. Just means did not file the gap to a uniform width.
Modified the Y-Axis adjustable bearing holder model an posted the new Y-Axis adjustable bearing holder with an 8mm gap. I can feel the difference by manually moving the Hot-bed in Y-Axis directions.
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Post by RobertsClif on Mar 9, 2022 18:06:47 GMT
Power supply S-360-24.
Today could not take the noisy fan any more, as never throw anything away that can be used as a replacement part. I replaced the FWDZ brushless fan #FD6015S14M this was salvaged from another power supply, can not hear any noise now.
Keeping noisy fan, may be able to refurbish it to like new condition, can always throw away later when it is determined no good.
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