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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 10, 2022 23:23:11 GMT
Just purchased my 3rd Hictop this one appears to be a 3DP12 Will be upgrading this to match my other Hictop, an will post here every step taken to achieve my 3rd matching Hictop 3D Printer.
Now where am I going to put this one.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 10, 2022 23:47:04 GMT
All you have to do is follow my posts as I do the upgrades to my 3rd Hictop 3D.
My first upgrades will be simple 3D Printed models that allow the Hictop Printer to run smoother, better, and make adjustments easier.
All have been posted on a forum so will print multiple models at one time as no firmware adjustments will be needed.
Y-Axis end-stop model for Y-Axis stepper motor as a Y-Axis end stop switch rest.
Y-Axis bearing holder modification to hold Y-Axis belt firmly in place as the belt likes to wander and rub on Y-Axis bearing holder.
Z axis smooth rod holder as this also like to wander around making for a very rough Z-Axis on all models printed
Proximity sensor holder for original SN04-P proximity sensor, at the same time I will be adding my TL-W3MC2.
I will also begin changing the wiring as some of this original wiring is under-rated
Example the Power Cord is too small, power wire to controller is also too small.
I used parts from a old dead computer power supply to make a cover for the power supply to include a computer style power socket.
Enough for now will catch all who has a Hictop or similar 3D Printer that wants these modifications.
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 11, 2022 11:15:42 GMT
nice, can't wait to follow your progress and maybe see some photos...is this one going to be a 3rd colour as well, or matching your red or blue?
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 11, 2022 13:46:00 GMT
Now I already know what it will be called. But just for fun let's see what you would name my 3rd Hictop 3D Printer... The rules are it must be a color.
This will not help you but the others are called Red an Blu (this short for Blue)
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 12, 2022 11:15:08 GMT
I dub thee...."it's not pink, it's salmon" ;p
Could have 2 colours? Make it Canadian and call it Red Green? (If you don't know who that is, it is worth youtubing)
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 18, 2022 0:20:05 GMT
OK --- No My Choice = red and blue = Violet = Vio
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 18, 2022 9:52:50 GMT
con-fuscia-ous?
sorry...I'll see myself out...lol
Vio is cool...is this one actually purple, or just choosing as an in between name?
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 18, 2022 14:22:41 GMT
Purple was my second choice for the printers name or Purr - fect for kitty.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 20, 2022 1:57:11 GMT
Printer arrived yesterday not much for looks yet.
I needed to 3D Print some smooth rod supports, they will not support Z-Axis with a major wobble.
If you look the sheet metal will not hold the smooth rods in place, Thanks this has already been designed.
The hot-end cooling fan duct was broken and the hot-end was plugged.
Replaced all hot-end needed parts and printed a Filament guide, must be something is still wrong as the filament did not want slide smoothly threw to the hot-end.
Plugged again. Will trouble shoot this better this time an post my results.
Not too bad less than 24 hours and printed something, not a very good print but it printed.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 21, 2022 0:09:32 GMT
Printed an attached the Smooth Rod supports then printed test below.
Forgot to show you the quality of my 1st print.
Petty bad hum
Needs more than I first thought. Replaced nozzle heat block and throat. An plugged the nozzle already. Determined the filament does not move smoothly thru the hot-end assembly, need to completely examine all parts to find the cause.
You can hear all linear bearing jerk during the movements, they are full of whatever junk. I purchase the LM8UU clean them and remove the LM8UU from the SCS8UU bearings.
All belts are way too loose causing more jerking during movements, and it feels like these bearings are adjusted incorrectly.
Both Lead screw couplers are tweaked will not allow the lead screw to turn True...
Decided the newest addition my 3D Printer family shall be called Pur and its color scheme shall be purple. Purple being my favorite color I am Out this has been ordered an will arrive within a week.
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 21, 2022 14:17:08 GMT
Nice project. I'm sure it will be great when you're done with it. Is that a burn mark on the bed?
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 21, 2022 23:40:06 GMT
No that is the broken fan buct.
Dissembled the Hictop extruder assembly found the extruder gear set screws were catching on Hictop's 3D Printed exturder housing. Reversed the Gear an test printed another Filament Guide below, this one look better. but not quite there... 
I still need to disassemble quite a bit of X&Y assemble so no reason to adjust the belt tension to get the best print results. just troubleshooting simple problems. Next post I will have all belts tension adjusted and all bearing cleaned an lubricated. By The way I remember why I have a manual slide mount proximity sensor thumb screw adjustment. The simple bed leveling an proximity sensor adjustment loosening and tightening screws is a horrible waste of time. If I have an adjustable slide mount proximity sensor mount this several hour task would have only taken a couple minutes. This adjusts the Proximity height to the Nozzle height making then we adjust the four corners for Bed leveling. If you look at the image above you will see that a stock machine still has a lot of wobble, but prints a fairly good model. After Cleaning all bearings the print improvement will be notices quite easily. The main problem I found was the hot-end > Heat Block, Nozzle and throat were was adjusted to it lowest point, This allows for extreme heat to build up causing the Teflon tubing to melt and deform causing clogs. I have added a part to allow the Throat assembly to stay cool this is a heat fin.  I cut these with only 2 fins, I just used my last one wish I could find more. The only M6 Heat sinks found are these  |
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 22, 2022 14:41:43 GMT
Today I printed an adjustable Y belt tensioner that will be installing to My Hictop
Y tensioner used in conjunction with a pair of fanged half width width MF128ZZ bearings This will allow the belt to smoothly ride between the flanges with rubbing or catching bearing holder. I use M3 X 20 screws to adjust the tension of the belt by adjusting the in equally on both sides.
The Y tensioner is my design so I have included in this post
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 23, 2022 16:29:50 GMT
The bed leveling wing nuts were one of Hictop worst design flaws. The wing nut have to be adjusted parallel to Bed or they get caught on Smooth rod holders. Not one but All four wing nuts will catch the on the Smooth rod holder located on their corner. This causes major crashes on Y-Axis.
The M3 fits tight this is good it will prevent the wheel from turning with the vibrations created by 3D printing.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 27, 2022 16:12:39 GMT
This update requires lead screw couplers and electrician tape, in my case I will be changing a TR8-8 lead screw with a TR8-2 Lead screw. Any wobble in the couplers will transfer motion to nozzle causing an artifact at the apex of wobbles. Attached video shows my wobbling Hictop 3D Printer couplers.
I have not received my replacement TR8-2 single start 2mm pitch lead screws. though continuing with my updates.
The reason is because I have had nothing but troubles with 8mm pitch lead screws shown example in attached videoEvery time the 3D Printer is turned off a complete leveling process must be completed before I can print, because the dual Z-Axis stepper are wired to a single stepper driver.
One lead screw will turn with the weight or any vibration close to Printer.
When you insert the lead screws into couplers they are slightly loose, this will still cause a small wobble. I wrap a single layer of electricians tape on end of lead screw to center in coupler an trim off excess.
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