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Post by RobertsClif on Dec 20, 2020 16:22:40 GMT
Hello I wanted to Show my 3D Printers in the inexpensive shingle sheet of plywood enclosure.
I designed this enclosure from a single sheet of plywood to try to keep my ABS prints from warping. This was one of by best decisions I have made, rarely have I ever experienced a warped print, an then it was such a tiny warp it was not easily seen...
I have two Hictop 3D Printers that were purchased used on E-Bay, the original owners could not assemble or get 1st print to stick on the hotbed.
Red is my first purchase and is a Hictop 3DP11 12 volt 3D Printer, Blu is my second purchase and is a Hictop 3DP12 24Volt 3D Printer.
Both have many modifications to make the more pleasing to the eyes, which do not change the the operation of the 3D Printers.
This is what they both looked like when purchased.
The added modifications include Smooth rod supports, LCD front display case, Enclosure Spool holders, lighted T-Slot LEDs with clip-in covers, Controller Case designed with a Snap in cover plate.
Both have been upgraded with filament run-out sensor, an a Omron TL-w3WC2 Low profile inductive proximity sensor.
With a newly designed parts cooling duct to allow only model cooling not the hotend.
If any user needing help with a Hictop 3D Printers I have helped many users with modifications hardware and firmware to make these printers keep up with the best.
And the controller is a MKS 5 Stepper single board 8 bit Arduino Mega2560
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Post by RobertsClif on Dec 21, 2020 19:15:12 GMT
When I started working with Blu my 2nd 3D Printer the EFI noise was causing the printer to make all kinds of erroneous moves during printing. I discovered that by moving the LCD Display from top T-Slot Frame to the furthermost location on the 3D Printer this being the Front.
Learning one step at a time using You-Tube video's during the entire process of creating the next step of the final design above. I learned to create the Rectangle, round the edges, hollow to box, making portholes for connectors, and rounding the edges of the Name and Fan grill.
It was a little more complex as I found myself in somewhat of a box canyon several times forcing me to restart the Design in an order allowing the design to its completion.
It was frustrating and fun learning to use this new Tool for creating my 3D Printer designs. Thous was the learning process of Fusion 360 for the creation of all my 3D Printer designs. Stl Files Available free upon request.
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Post by RobertsClif on Dec 21, 2020 19:37:33 GMT
I have 3D Printed on may surfaces the best being the Paper Tape method, i'am not talking about the Blue Painters tape. I have created a series of videos showing how easy it is to use Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape
Installing Vinyl Transfer Paper
Will Vinyl transfer paper Hold my Part
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Post by RobertsClif on Dec 21, 2020 20:48:05 GMT
Wow found an three year old picture of my 3D Printers with the T-Slot lights on an LCD on Top.
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Post by Xayoz on Dec 22, 2020 11:24:31 GMT
Interesting. I had the soft magnetic surface on my old ender, then the spring steel on the ender, glass on the sidewinder, and spring steel on my prusas. So far, I'm a big fan of the steel sheets. They are easily removed, easily cleaned, and the prints pop right off after they cool as long as you use the right sheet.
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Post by RobertsClif on Dec 22, 2020 14:34:07 GMT
Started to print on the original Aluminum heated bed combination, it has warped several times an is difficult to re-level "make flat again".
Found the the decal transfer tape or Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape allowed me quite a nozzle distance for adhesion while being easily removed.
Then finally changed to the cheap transfer surfaces and had problems with adhesion until after heating the hotbed to 100C, then adhesion worked.
Though apply the Vinyl Transfer Paper Tape to the top of the Print surface for extremely complex curvy models.
Maybe it is time to get one of these steel sheets or Glass mirror, though my bed is 220 X 270 could you post or PM me a link for the one you use.
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Post by RobertsClif on Dec 24, 2020 13:54:01 GMT
After a few long prints a learned that my controller was without any form of heat sinks, so I made this the highest on my priorities.
I added a TO220 Transistor mounting kit and added an aluminum bar, along with a controller cooling fan.
Then when I selected my 1st Ramps controller it was Ramps 1.6 because it came with the Heat sink for the Mosfets.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 28, 2022 20:47:10 GMT
Although looks do not make any 3D Printer print better I like to make them look professional.
With this in mind, re-designed this Power Supply case cover for my Hictop 3DP12 24v power supply.
I have added a 120v power socket taken from a broken used desktop computer. Added an access hole for a led light dimmer potentiometer and a power switch which should have never been optional.
The LED dimmer will have a minimal component 0-12 volt variable power supply circuit wired directly to the potentiometer.
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 29, 2022 15:23:40 GMT
nice clean design
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 29, 2022 16:51:34 GMT
I first purchased a lot of 5k ohm potentiometers from a cheap source all failed. The new one are refurbished for old electrons they defiantly work better of course they cost more.
They make my 3D Printers look so much better as well.
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Post by RobertsClif on Feb 2, 2022 20:44:33 GMT
This is Purple my 3rd 3D Printer.
Picked this one up for half the price of my first two 3D Printers.
Still need to finish printing the 2020 T-Slot snap in slot covers. Add led strip in side bed frame T-Slots an cover with clear T-Slot snap in covers add a 12 volt variable supply. Then find a location for a more permanent home.
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Post by Xayoz on Feb 3, 2022 11:12:13 GMT
looking good, and didn't take you that long to fix it up either
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Post by RobertsClif on Jul 18, 2022 12:48:14 GMT
Earlier in this thread I made the Snap together Hictop case. This is a short video showing the steps I took and learned in order to complete the models for the Hictop Case
For those of you who think this is playing too fast
Here’s how to force YouTube to play a video in slow motion on a laptop or desktop computer:
Open YouTube in your web browser.
Load a video that you want to watch, then click the “gear” shaped settings icon in the lower right-hand corner of the video player window. (Refer to the YouTube screenshot below.)
Click the “Speed” setting to display the drop-down box, then select either 0.25 to watch the video at 1/4 speed or 0.5 to watch it at half speed. You should see the video slow down immediately after making your choice.
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Tech Gorilla
Hobbyist
I'm ashamed to be the only one here at this time of night.
Posts: 59
3D Printers Owned: Hictop 3DP-17 Old, modified Ender 3
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Post by Tech Gorilla on Aug 1, 2022 14:31:30 GMT
I have printed a couple of ABS parts on the Ender. I did it ghetto and pointed a portable heater at the printer. I managed to make a phone mount for my DJI Spark drone with it. It was several pieces that slid together great! I still have that roll of ABS too.
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