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Post by torque2spec on Jan 29, 2021 18:01:08 GMT
Ok, the download had had a nice PDF to go with it, looks simple. I just need to figure out the USB driver issue now..
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 30, 2021 1:47:57 GMT
No I believe it is Marlin 1.1.x
Marlin 1.1.9 as Here duplicate the changes into Marlin 1.1.9BF or Marlin 2.0.7.2 this would work.
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Post by torque2spec on Jan 30, 2021 3:04:58 GMT
So I got fed up.. I couldn't get the printer to talk to my PC AT ALL.. I have been pulling my hair out trying to figure out this USB driver issue.
I unplug-ed the sensor and reconnected the Z stop and put everything back together the way it was out of the box.... Guess what? The USB works fine now, plugged into my PC and it connected no problem.
If I had to take a guess the wire diagram I used for the BLTouch is wrong. I'll keep you posted and to what I figure out.
1 things for certain, half of what people are posting online and on YouTube is completely false information. Learning the hard way but at least I'm starting to make some headway here.
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 30, 2021 13:43:09 GMT
We live in a world where Fake Information is becoming the norm, This is why I do not have a social media account like Facebook, Twitter, Ect.... Plus I got tired of listening to the family whine about everything. We try to help every one though sometimes frustration wins.
As time goes by I hope you keep reading posts from the forums, because one day you will wake up an say Today I can do it.
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 30, 2021 17:19:08 GMT
I'm not sure I understand...you have built in bootloader but are trying to load firmware through a USB cable? I had SKR Mini E3 1.2 board on my Ender 3 Pro. That had a built in bootloader. So I would compile Cheetah 5.0, go to the .pi/build folder, and copy the .bin file to a micro sd card. I would load that card on the Ender and turn it on. The screen would flash and the new firmware would be loaded. If you mean the USBISP stick (which I did on my stock board, the stick came with my BLtouch), that was a little more involved and required a program called progisp+ If using an arduino board, that is a different process again to my knowledge, those are the only 3 methods that work reliably, other than certain printers, like Prusa, which use the slicer to update via USB cable. As far as BLTouch wiring, people tend to talk about the wiring in terms of colours...but that can vary. Kay3D has a much better description kay3d.com/pages/the-correct-way-to-configure-a-bltouch
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Post by torque2spec on Jan 31, 2021 2:13:16 GMT
I'm not sure I understand...you have built in bootloader but are trying to load firmware through a USB cable? I had SKR Mini E3 1.2 board on my Ender 3 Pro. That had a built in bootloader. So I would compile Cheetah 5.0, go to the .pi/build folder, and copy the .bin file to a micro sd card. I would load that card on the Ender and turn it on. The screen would flash and the new firmware would be loaded. If you mean the USBISP stick (which I did on my stock board, the stick came with my BLtouch), that was a little more involved and required a program called progisp+ If using an arduino board, that is a different process again to my knowledge, those are the only 3 methods that work reliably, other than certain printers, like Prusa, which use the slicer to update via USB cable. As far as BLTouch wiring, people tend to talk about the wiring in terms of colours...but that can vary. Kay3D has a much better description kay3d.com/pages/the-correct-way-to-configure-a-bltouchSorry I'm still very new to all of this. I thought the term "bootloader" just ment I didn't have to buy a Arduino board and it was all built in over USB. So I guess "bootloader is like a "autorun" feature for the printer via SD.
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Post by torque2spec on Jan 31, 2021 2:18:32 GMT
We live in a world where Fake Information is becoming the norm, This is why I do not have a social media account like Facebook, Twitter, Ect.... Plus I got tired of listening to the family whine about everything. We try to help every one though sometimes frustration wins.
As time goes by I hope you keep reading posts from the forums, because one day you will wake up an say Today I can do it.
You and me are in the same boat fren, I got off all those platforms back in 2015. Sadly I have to use IG for my side hustles but that's it.. I don't even like using Reddit but lately I've been bouncing between the 3d printing and wallstreetbets subs lol
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Post by RobertsClif on Jan 31, 2021 12:22:11 GMT
Do under stand though I have learned so much on the 3D Printer forums planning to be her until learning it all. Hope you do the same, as stated one day you will learn exactly how.
I 3D Printed this Burley for my MPCNC an as you can see looks great.
After reading 3D Printer forum
Assembled Z-Carriage
If I would have never been on forums to read this would not look so perfect.
Before reading 3D Printer forum
1st Failed Print below
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 31, 2021 14:41:44 GMT
oh, I see...I was never able to connect my Ender to my PC either, but the USBISB cable worked, and once I replace the controller board, the new one had the bootloader, so didn't need computer at all...from what you are describing, I would suggest trying the USBISP cable that would likely have come with your BLTouch and progisp+ USBISP looks like this: progisp can be found in the ender 5 1.1.5 8 bit download. unzip and look around, the .rar is there to be uncompressed. www.creality.com/download
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Post by Xayoz on Jan 31, 2021 14:47:50 GMT
ok...or on googling your printer, I guess it is like the prusa...connect to pc and update through the slicer....
if it's not being found by the slicer, check which com port it's using in device manager...that may need to be set on the slicer...all the guides show cura, but you could try prusa slicer and see if that finds it any better.
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Post by torque2spec on Feb 2, 2021 21:43:23 GMT
So update: I messed with it all weekend.. The way I had it wired wouldn't let the printer turn on at all, you hit the switch and the screen pops on for a sec and goes dark. I changed the wires to as many configs as I could think of and the best I got it to was the printer would boot and stay on but the sensor wouldn't do anything but blink indicating wrong wiring. (from what I have been reading its suppose to stay solid red) So there's is no point in updating the firmware if this garbage isn't going to work. I have to say, this has been without a doubt the most frustrating useless add-on I've ever seen in my life. Since I've wasted a week and a half now on this thing I've read a ton of of people having problems getting it to work even after firmware update. So I'm taking the L and moving on. Back to printing. I have some questions maybe you guys can help out with. I have been having slight adhesion issues and I'm not sure what to make of it. I'm not having the leveling issues I first had now but the whole thing is WAYYY more level than first out of the box. I don't think its a level issue but my spidey sense is telling me may room temp is playing a part? I'm not sure honestly. See below. The first layers go down without a hitch, but as the model builds and gets taller I start to get separation. I'm using hair spray and don't think its that... Maybe the plastic is cooling too fast? I set up a space heater but I got thermal runaway so I'm gonna need some extension cords to play around with how far the heater should be.. Room temp is around 60f. Any ideas?
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Post by RobertsClif on Feb 3, 2021 1:42:59 GMT
What temperature are you extruding the filament and what kind of filament are you printing. Make of filament and type of filament, What is your bed surface. What hair spray are you using. I have 3D Printed on many bed surfaces using many methods for extra adhesion. There will be no way to guess what method you are using. I Print PLA at 208C with a hotbed temp of 40-60C, ABS at 232C with a hotbed temp of 96C both are inside a heated 30C enclosure. Switch between Tape and a standard cheap Chinese bed surface could not even tell you what it is made of.
In the above photo you can see the threw the medium tack vinyl transfer paper tape at the Bed Surface triangle shaped logo. The medium tack vinyl transfer tape, is used to transfer adhesive vinyl decals from its backing to its permanent surface then remove the medium tack transfer tape.
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Post by Xayoz on Feb 3, 2021 11:15:31 GMT
Room temp is 60f? As in 15c? That is cold...like garage in winter cold...
Based on your stated room temp alone, I would suggest an enclosure would help.
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Post by RobertsClif on Feb 3, 2021 12:20:57 GMT
Wow 15C when my 3D Printer Hot-end cooled in winter the controller firmware would not allow me to start heating. Only by changing the line below was I allowed to heat the hot-end without external hairdryer to bring thermisters up to allow heating.
It works like this Base temp is 25C - 10 C so the lowest temp is 15C (59 F) the cooling affect on my aluminum block dropped the thermister temperature below 15C.
#define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 12.5 // was 10 added 2.5 was to allow cold morning temp sensor startup.
I may have to raise the temperature for larger models though smaller models temp has suited my needs for the filaments currently use.
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Post by torque2spec on Feb 3, 2021 19:25:56 GMT
Filament: Inland PLA (MicroCenter's house brand)
Nozzle Temp: 205c
Bed: 60c
Room Ambient Temp: 63-65f
--------------------------
Yeah We just got hit with 5 inches a few days ago so Its not warmest down here. My shop is setup in the basement prob too close to the back door. I have a space heater set up at a nice distance, I'm getting 68f-ish around the printer now.
I also added 10% more structure support fill since what I'm printing is sitting on top of support structure so I think that might help out a little. I'll let you know in about 7 hrs.
I was also printing at 200c on the nozzle so I bumped those rookie numbers up to 205 for this print.
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